|
Bread Maker Roast Profiles
|
| scarter11 |
Posted on 10/04/2010 17:30
|
1/4 Pounder
Posts: 86
Joined: 06/24/2010 05:12
|
Any one interested in posting their BM roast profiles? |
| |
|
|
| seedlings |
Posted on 10/05/2010 05:58
|
Administrator EMERITUS
Posts: 4295
Joined: 06/27/2007 11:39
|
I've posted some, scattered here and there. I found the key to add lots of energy (heat) as soon as the beans are yellow until just prior to first crack, then back off. I don't regularly go into second crack, but once second crack was reached, the beans could just 'cruise' without heat for a couple of minutes while the temp kept rising slowly.
In general:
4 min to yellow (beans should be yellow by the time they hit 300F, or you're going too fast)
4 min to first crack (first crack regularly was 400F~405F range)
2 min duration of first crack (first crack usually ended around 415~420F)
2 min more to full city + (cusp of second crack, 435~440F)
CHAD
Edited by seedlings on 10/05/2010 05:59
Don't put the cart before the horse. Put the horse in the cart and listen to him say "weeeee" all the way down the hill.
|
| |
|
|
| scarter11 |
Posted on 10/05/2010 10:42
|
1/4 Pounder
Posts: 86
Joined: 06/24/2010 05:12
|
That sounds about what I've been working towards. With my hybrid roaster, I have considerably more power than most HG BM's, and think I'm going a little fast on both ends.
My TC is cheap and fluctuates considerably, so my tendency is to err with too much heat as opposed to too little.
On a side note, the Temp monitor I have is the cheap one that SM sells, and it only accurate to the whole degree c or f. It fluctuates as much as +- 5 degrees. Do you think the fluctuation is a faulty TC, or the inaccuracy of the unit itself.
Since Fahrenheit is roughly double Celsius, I might gain some accuracy by switching to Celsius. |
| |
|
|
| seedlings |
Posted on 10/05/2010 11:18
|
Administrator EMERITUS
Posts: 4295
Joined: 06/27/2007 11:39
|
Does the temperature fluctuate measuring... ambient air temperature? Boiling water? Is this your thermometer:
This one should be accurate. If it is fluctuating, perhaps the probe tip being beat by the stirring action is causing the connection to go open?
CHAD
Don't put the cart before the horse. Put the horse in the cart and listen to him say "weeeee" all the way down the hill.
|
| |
|
|
| scarter11 |
Posted on 10/05/2010 16:12
|
1/4 Pounder
Posts: 86
Joined: 06/24/2010 05:12
|
That's the one. The tip is only exposed a quarter inch or so. The only thing that touches it are the beans. Now that I think about it, it doesn't fluctuate in ambient air. It can be kind of flaky if moved around much. |
| |
|
|
| seedlings |
Posted on 10/06/2010 06:15
|
Administrator EMERITUS
Posts: 4295
Joined: 06/27/2007 11:39
|
If it varies when moved, then it probably has a spot where the wire is almost broken (high-resistance open).
You could buy a replacement K-type probe, even one with a beefy stainless tip. I had the same failure trouble with beaded tip probes... mine didn't go bad right at the tip, but an inch back where it rubbed. There's a thread around here somewhere with pictures of a steel tube running into the roaster to protect the thermocouple. I've searched but can't find it. The tube was part of an ink pen.
CHAD
Don't put the cart before the horse. Put the horse in the cart and listen to him say "weeeee" all the way down the hill.
|
| |
|
|
| stoneguard |
Posted on 10/06/2010 06:42
|
1/4 Pounder
Posts: 59
Joined: 09/22/2010 09:50
|
scarter11 wrote:
Since Fahrenheit is roughly double Celsius, I might gain some accuracy by switching to Celsius.
If your temperature is only displayed in whole degrees, then you get more accuracy using Fahrenheit, since it will increment two degrees (roughly) for every one degree Celsius.
|
| |
|
|
| scarter11 |
Posted on 10/06/2010 08:19
|
1/4 Pounder
Posts: 86
Joined: 06/24/2010 05:12
|
I remember that thread. I also remember some folks using brass tubing from an RC / Hobby shop. I'll have to see what I can find. I want to still be able to remove the BM pan to dump the beans.
seedlings wrote:
If it varies when moved, then it probably has a spot where the wire is almost broken (high-resistance open).
You could buy a replacement K-type probe, even one with a beefy stainless tip. I had the same failure trouble with beaded tip probes... mine didn't go bad right at the tip, but an inch back where it rubbed. There's a thread around here somewhere with pictures of a steel tube running into the roaster to protect the thermocouple. I've searched but can't find it. The tube was part of an ink pen.
CHAD |
| |
|
|
| scarter11 |
Posted on 10/07/2010 19:07
|
1/4 Pounder
Posts: 86
Joined: 06/24/2010 05:12
|
I ordered some coffee from SM tonight and went ahead and ordered a new TC at the same time. Here is a video of how much the temp fluctuates when in my kettle.
Edited by scarter11 on 10/07/2010 19:10
|
| |
|
|
| seedlings |
Posted on 10/08/2010 05:57
|
Administrator EMERITUS
Posts: 4295
Joined: 06/27/2007 11:39
|
I have to ask: was the probe submerged in the water, and not measuring steam temperature? If so, I agree with you that this won't do for helping you with coffee roasting measurements.
CHAD
Don't put the cart before the horse. Put the horse in the cart and listen to him say "weeeee" all the way down the hill.
|
| |
|
|
| scarter11 |
Posted on 10/08/2010 08:12
|
1/4 Pounder
Posts: 86
Joined: 06/24/2010 05:12
|
It was submerged. I'm fairly confident that the issue will be rectified when my new TC arrives next week.
Thanks for the help. |
| |
|
|
| Sherman |
Posted on 10/24/2010 18:15
|
Newbie
Posts: 26
Joined: 03/31/2009 07:08
|
seedlings wrote:
In general:
4 min to yellow (beans should be yellow by the time they hit 300F, or you're going too fast)
4 min to first crack (first crack regularly was 400F~405F range)
2 min duration of first crack (first crack usually ended around 415~420F)
2 min more to full city + (cusp of second crack, 435~440F)
Riffing on seedlings: (all temp measurements are BT with 350g loads)
1) as fast as possible to 250F
3) 180-210 seconds to 300F
2) as fast as possible to 1C
4) 6-10 seconds/1F to end, depending on bean and final target temp. Harder beans, lighter roasts go a little slower (closer to 10s/F), darker roasts go a little faster (closer to 6s/F).
Different beans call for different end times; I just finished some Poco de Caldas from Brazil that was great with a 6s/F final ramp ending at 438F, just when 2C started rockin', and am going through a HHT that works well with a 10s/F to 428F, just before the outliers of 2C.
I don't claim that any of this was exhaustive (i.e. "did you do double-blind batch testing at 0.1F increments?!!?!" ), but it tends to work well for me. Also, these are all roasts for espresso, pulled on a lever. So yeah, there's another variable that I haven't accounted for ;)
-s. |
| |
|
thank you for taking time to join us...
for you
thanks for joining