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Homeroasters.org » BUILDING A ROASTER » Fluidbed Roaster
Who is here? 1 guest(s)
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Brewer to Roaster..blower question...
allenb
For what it's worth on aluminum for roaster applications,

The stock element in my German made Sirocco fluidbed is housed in an aluminum tube with no mica board between the nichrome and tube. The distance between nichrome and tube wall is .25" and the nichrome gets very bright orange. The plastic fan housing connects to the aluminum tube although there is a thin silicone gasket separating the two pieces. I can't see anyone ever having a problem with aluminum unless they were going to use it to house a heat knife element hitting temps that would cause the aluminum to glow which would be pretty well out of roasting temps.

Obviously if there were a fan failure and no thermal fuses or high limit safeties it would be preferable to have something with a higher melting or distortion point.

I'll have to admit I like using stainless also but for those who can't fabricate parts out of it at home nor have the $ resources to hire a shop I wouldn't keep aluminum off the list.

Allen
1/2 lb and 1 lb drum, Siemens Sirocco fluidbed, presspot, chemex, cajun biggin brewer from the backwoods of Louisiana
 
oldgearhead
I can report a little progress. I got the blower installed.
I have a question for the group:
Has anyonre tried chrome sink steel for a heat manifold? It's the
perfect size for the Master Heat Gun 1.4KW element..
OGH
oldgearhead attached the following image:
dsc_5399.jpg

No oil on my beans...
 
JETROASTER
Yes, I used 2 lavatory drains for the Max Heatgun MH-1.
1 for the RC inlet, 1 for the exhaust port. I'm also using the chrome piping for the exhaust line.
No problems with heat, and it mates with a whole bunch of easy to find stuff. Looks great! -Scott
 
oldgearhead
Thanks Scott for the quick answer? Will it cut okay with a Ridgid pipe
cutter? How does it drill?
No oil on my beans...
 
seedlings
I'm curious how much heat you'll be able to recycle in the PVC? What's its operating temp rating? From my experience small increases in inlet air temperature can be a big help roasting. As an example, when I roast in 40F weather and a strong wind blows in the garage I can watch the ET drop by 5 degrees.

100F to 150F inlet air temps would show fantastic results.

CHAD
Don't put the cart before the horse. Put the horse in the cart and listen to him say "weeeee" all the way down the hill.
 
JETROASTER
Its a whole lot easier than stainless! I used a hacksaw for cutting. Drilling is easy.
Not as easy as aluminum, but the most basic tools will work.
Curious about your heat transition piece ; It looks like a cocktail shaker top? Bravo!!!! Scott
 
oldgearhead
Chad,
I should be able to experiment with some recycled air. I'm planning a 'mixing box' in the front of the old Bloomfield. I will have ambient air
and air from the RC chaff collecter available at the inlet filter screen.
OGH
No oil on my beans...
 
oldgearhead
freshbeans wrote:
Its a whole lot easier than stainless! I used a hacksaw for cutting. Drilling is easy.
Not as easy as aluminum, but the most basic tools will work.
Curious about your heat transition piece ; It looks like a cocktail shaker top? Bravo!!!! Scott


yes, it's a 3.5" shaker top.
No oil on my beans...
 
oldgearhead
Progress report.
All of the big cuts have been made, and I'm down to a few (12) smaller holes, and Dave has made some very fine parts for my RC.

New Roaster June 2011 To-do List:

1) Install new brewer skin-to-frame fasteners. Old ones were removed because the HC-RC hole passed right through them.

2) Install hinge between brewer top and frame. I must drill twelve difficult holes in stainless steel.

3) Install heater, pressure switch, and TC in HC manifold.

4) Wrap HC manifold with exhaust tape, and seal with silicone paint.

5) Attach HC manifold to blower.

6) Attach brewer frame to wood base.

7) Install brewer skin.

8) Set RC in place and measure the top gap for the three inch diameter chaff collector/screen riser. Make or buy the riser.

9) Float some beans (Great Northern and coffee).

If all goes well, its heat sometime in July!

Thanks to everyone Scott, Chad, Dave, and etc. (especially dja), for all the help so far. Iím sure Iíll need more help as things progress.

JRS (AKA: oldgearhead)
oldgearhead attached the following image:
dsc_5661.jpg

No oil on my beans...
 
seedlings
Awwwww... we have to wait till July? Boo. :(

(But I must say, "nice progress," though ThumbsUp )

CHAD
Don't put the cart before the horse. Put the horse in the cart and listen to him say "weeeee" all the way down the hill.
 
oldgearhead
First integration day.
Today I will fit everything together, so that, I may determine the length for the 3" diameter RC riser pipe. The riser pipe contains the chaff screen/ collector, and it connects the RC to the exhaust orfice baffle. So, its a pretty critical part.

I've finished most of the items on my to-do list, except:
4) Manifold wrap - I'm going to skip this unless I find too much air leakage around the manifold machine screws. I would like to get some manifold skin temperature readings as well.
8) Float some beans - I'm going to wait till I have the riser finished before this step.


Lets start by installing this:
oldgearhead attached the following image:
dsc_5738.jpg

No oil on my beans...
 
oldgearhead
.....in this hole:
oldgearhead attached the following image:
dsc_5739.jpg

No oil on my beans...
 
oldgearhead
...well that turned out pretty good!
oldgearhead attached the following image:
dsc_5742.jpg

No oil on my beans...
 
JETROASTER
oldgearhead wrote:
...well that turned out pretty good!


Yes it did! Very nice. I really like the plumbing fittings...very universal.
Your design lends itself to more assembly and less fabrication.
Nicely done!
I made a little discovery that a 1.25" conduit coupler works very well for joining 1.5" pipe. It just so happens that the barrel of my heat-gun is 1.5".
The inlet to a martini shaker was also 1.5"
Cheers, -Scott
JETROASTER attached the following image:
connector.jpg
 
oldgearhead
Well Scott, I repurposed yet another part! The 3" riser I mentioned earlier needs to be 3" long. So what's made of 3" aluminum pipe and is 3" long? ??

If you guessed turbo intercooler hose coupler, your right. As soon as I discovered that, I cast an eye toward my ancient Saab 9000 (76 mm). But she's safe because some guy in Michigan makes them and sells them on eBait for less than a 12" piece of pipe, and I don't have to pull the old pipe cutter or stumble over an 8.85" roller.

As far as fabrication goes, I would be lost without David Allen's help. He
is great!
oldgearhead attached the following image:
dsc_5742-2.jpg

No oil on my beans...
 
oldgearhead
Okay, some progress to report. I received the 3 x 3 riser today. Now I have the air loop closed. I have control of both the inlet ofrice and the outlet baffle, as well as the blower speed..video to follow.
oldgearhead attached the following image:
dsc_6267.jpg

No oil on my beans...
 
oldgearhead
One pound of Navy Beans:

Edited by seedlings on 06/16/2011 08:14
No oil on my beans...
 
greencardigan
Try putting the youtube link inside [video] tags.

What is the diameter of the top of your funnel?
 
oldgearhead
I tried it inside the U-Tube tags, with no luck. So I'll try the one that's for everyone but U-tube..well that works!
The riser is 3 inches by 3 inches..

Edited by oldgearhead on 06/15/2011 20:34
No oil on my beans...
 
greencardigan
oldgearhead wrote:
The riser is 3 inches by 3 inches..

I meant the top of the cocktail shaker lid. I'm trying to find a suitable size shaker for a future roast chamber.
 
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