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Homeroasters.org » BUILDING A ROASTER » Fluidbed Roaster
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Brewer to Roaster..blower question...
freshbeans
Hi tra,
I made the link clickable, but it appeared to be 'private'

Settings?? -Scott
 
tra757
Thanks, I made it public.

Tim
 
danw2002
the thing i was thinking for this was a dual walled vent like is on my
Gas water heater, use it just above the heat coils, or even mount the coils inside it, then use my chaff/heat return fan to blow air down from the top along the sides, through this outer pipe and back into my air intake for the heat elements..and make it adjustable to change the heat rise, depending on what you needed the roast system to do....many ideas...so little time....mmm
Dan Williams...WHAAAT!?!?!? I have NOT had enough coffee.....
 
oldgearhead
Well I thought I thought of everything. But of course there is one tiny detail. As I started to assemble the 5 modules into a complete unit I
discovered I had no way to attach the manifold thermocouple to the PID.
Furthermore, after turning my shop upside-down, I must conclude the only female 'K' connector in Indiana was missing. So, while waiting for the mailman I ordered some 'Mighty Mite' insulation for the manifold and pre-tested the modules:
Module 1 (base & blower) - Check
Module 2 (Brewer frame, speed control, and SSR) - Check
Module 3 (Brewer front & PID) - Check
Module 4 (Electrical entrance and control panel) - Check
Module 5 (Brewer top, switches, air baffle, and air recycle box) - Check
oldgearhead attached the following image:
ladder.jpg

Edited by oldgearhead on 06/28/2011 06:20
 
seedlings
30 amps! What size wire did you run from the breaker to the roaster? I used #10 for 240V, 20A.

CHAD
Don't put the cart before the horse. Put the horse in the cart and listen to him say "weeeee" all the way down the hill.
 
oldgearhead
Breaker is 40A, wire is 10ga, line cord is 14/3. I can run about anything because the distance is short, the main is a simple QO and it has room for another 80A. I really haven't totally ruled out 220 yet. But the current set-up will probably peak at 21A on 120.

OGH IBEW 1225
 
oldgearhead
Saturday assembly recap page 01:
Okay the female TC connector has arrived, each module has been checked out, and its time to put this thing together.

I'll start with an image of the base and blower. I shot this with a $900.00
lens that I managed to miss-focus:
oldgearhead attached the following image:
dsc_8338.jpg
 
oldgearhead
Saturday assembly recap page 02:
Here's the heating manifold. Its all sealed with Permetex Red and fiberglass tape.
oldgearhead attached the following image:
dsc_8339.jpg
 
oldgearhead
Saturday assembly recap page 03:
Here's the front. Notice the female TC connector? Very important item.
oldgearhead attached the following image:
dsc_8340.jpg
 
oldgearhead
Saturday assemblt recap page 04:
The top with all the control switches and the air control mixing baffle:
oldgearhead attached the following image:
dsc_8341.jpg
 
oldgearhead
Saturday assembly recap page 05:
This is the one-piece frame, back. and sides. See the obsolete Dayton
speed control? I hope it works out. My only concern is it has a limited turn-down of only 25% min speed.
oldgearhead attached the following image:
dsc_8342.jpg

Edited by oldgearhead on 06/30/2011 19:05
 
oldgearhead
Saturday assembly recap page 06:
..and the control box. If you look real close you will notice
I forgot to wire a neutral to the relay. So it didn't quite work the way I planned the first time...
oldgearhead attached the following image:
dsc_8345.jpg
 
oldgearhead
Saturday assembly recap page 06:
The mailman just dropped off the firewall insulation I ordered. You know, the stuff they use to line the inside of 'funny cars' with.
Here is the completed heat manifold.
oldgearhead attached the following image:
dsc_8347.jpg
 
greencardigan
oldgearhead wrote:
Saturday assembly recap page 06:
The mailman just dropped off the firewall insulation I ordered. You know, the stuff they use to line the inside of 'funny cars' with.
Here is the completed heat manifold.

Great pics.

Can I ask how easy it will be to replace your element if it's every required?
www.greencardigan.com/misc/gifs/ausflag.gif
 
oldgearhead
Okay I just couldn't wait so I tossed in 400 grams of some Thai 'Hot Boy'
beans and turned it on. Here is my list of issues:
1) The manifold TC is worthless (to much air flow maybe?) it reads 345F
when the beans are in a 'roaring' first crack.

2) How did I know the beans were in first crack? I got close and started to listen when I received a shower of chaff accompyed by the 'cracking' noise comming from over my head! I checked everything and didn't see anything wrong until I realized the pressure at the top of the RC was actually lifting the brewer top in the air. I've got to tie down the top or add weight or clamps.

3) The Z&D baffle-separator worked well but as David predicted it isn't big enough. That shouldn't be too hard to fix because there is plenty of room in the RC you could even put a cyclone separator in it if you wanted.
However, for coffee I think a baffle-separator is just about as effective.

4) It was 96F in the shop this PM so I didn't try to recycle any air.

Conclusions:
A) 400 grams to first crack in 10 minutes. Full-city in 14 minutes. I don't (intentionally) do dark roasts.
B) Current with 120 VAC was 20 amps with heater on 100%.
C) The speed control could be a problem. With 400 grams I couldn't turn it down quite far enough for a good 'spout'. I'll try 500 grams next time.
D) I guess I need to gring a slot in the RC base for my BMT probe.
E) I wonder what it will do if I can seal the top?

I'll try to get some video over the weekind.
 
oldgearhead
greencardigan wrote:
oldgearhead wrote:
Saturday assembly recap page 06:
The mailman just dropped off the firewall insulation I ordered. You know, the stuff they use to line the inside of 'funny cars' with.
Here is the completed heat manifold.

Great pics.

Can I ask how easy it will be to replace your element if it's every required?

Well its 4 bolts and one hose clamp to remove the manifold. THe insulation is fastened with some tape. Cut the wires, remove a bolt and the element will slide out. I think the worst part would be digging out the red stuff..and the re-installation is a bit tricky.
 
greencardigan
Congrats on a sucessful 1st roast! I was wondering how it would go with only 1450W element.

Looking forward for a video.
www.greencardigan.com/misc/gifs/ausflag.gif
 
dja
Jim

one quick question, whats your opinon now that you have a roast done where you can see so much of the bean mass.

I had pressure issues myself with my roaster trying to hold it together when its at 450 degrees ain't no fun cowboy! you don't relize how much pressure these things take to move said beans.

David
Edited by dja on 06/30/2011 20:44
I pour Iron and roast Coffee BeansThumbsUp
If life seems normal your not going fast enough Mario Andrette
 
seedlings
Speed control doesn't get low enough... I have the same trouble. In disassembling them, though, there is a variable resistor inside. I've wondered if it sets the low on-off threshold? You can access the dial if you take the back off. Maybe I'll play with it sometime if you don't beat me to it.

CHAD
Don't put the cart before the horse. Put the horse in the cart and listen to him say "weeeee" all the way down the hill.
 
greencardigan
seedlings wrote:
Speed control doesn't get low enough... I have the same trouble. In disassembling them, though, there is a variable resistor inside. I've wondered if it sets the low on-off threshold? You can access the dial if you take the back off. Maybe I'll play with it sometime if you don't beat me to it.

CHAD

There's a good chance your router controller has a similar circuit to the DIY version that RoasterRob and myself are using. It has a variable resistor in parallel with the main knob/variable resistor that sets the maximum resistance and therefore minimum power.

http://www.epanor...ml#1kw230v

Do you have a circuit diagram for the router controller?
www.greencardigan.com/misc/gifs/ausflag.gif
 
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yes...

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