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Modifying the Poppery 1
brennn
Top  #51 Print Post
Posted on 09/15/2013 8:37 PM
Is there any documentation on this forum of the Arduino TC4 used with the West Bend Poppery?
 
JackH
Top  #52 Print Post
Posted on 09/16/2013 7:55 AM

Quote

brennn wrote:

Is there any documentation on this forum of the Arduino TC4 used with the West Bend Poppery?


No documentation yet, but there should be some posts of probe placement for Bean Temp and Environment Temp on poppers in general that might help.

There is a good discussion in the dataloggers forum about poppers and control in general:
http://forum.home...ad_id=3293

Jack
Edited by JackH on 09/16/2013 8:01 AM
---Jack

KKTO Roaster.
 
brennn
Top  #53 Print Post
Posted on 09/19/2013 9:42 PM

Quote



No documentation yet, but there should be some posts of probe placement for Bean Temp and Environment Temp on poppers in general that might help.

There is a good discussion in the dataloggers forum about poppers and control in general:
http://forum.home...ad_id=3293

Jack


Thanks for the link, Jack! It is very helpful.
 
brennn
Top  #54 Print Post
Posted on 12/05/2013 7:31 PM
What is the name of the clamp shown in Image "P1 3 5 1"? I was looking in Lowe's today, and could only find the hose clamps. I'm looking for the one with the screw holes that are perpendicular to the clamp.
brennn attached the following image:
p1_3_5_1.jpg
Edited by JackH on 12/05/2013 8:46 PM
 
Airhan
Top  #55 Print Post
Posted on 12/05/2013 9:11 PM
I think that may have been fabricated by mike, not something he bought in a store, I'm sure there is something similar to it however
Aaron
"Grind it like it did you some great injustice!"D.L.Clark
 
mlynsk
Top  #56 Print Post
Posted on 12/08/2013 12:47 PM
I'm new to the forum and have some questions, too. I'm modifying a 1400 watt Pumper, which I understand contains roughly the same inner workings as the Poppery I. I have split the heater and fan circuits, and have a few questions about grounding and also what type of cord to use.

I'm not an electrical expert but understand a little. The original popper has a 2-wire plug (ungrounded). I'm not sure if the metal parts of the popper are connected in any way to either lead of the power cord or just "floating" (I'll have to test with my multimeter), but the original cord has no "prong" to orient it in the outlet, so either wire could be hot or neutral.

It seems like a good idea to ground the metail housing, but maybe not run ground wires (3 prong cords) on both the heater and fan cords (separate cords), because you could create a "ground loop" (would be providing two separate paths to ground). Is this correct, or am I thinking of this the wrong way? I decided to just use a 3-prong cord on the heater and two-prong on the fan. So, the fan circuit would still be "floating", but if any wires, or whatever, come in contact with the metal housing, there would be the one path to ground through the heater cord. Is this the right way to go about this? I also haven't found a good way to connect the ground wire to the metal underside of the heater assembly. It's mostly smooth metal with no screws or tabs to connect to, so for now I'm not using the ground wire yet.

I sourced a cord for the heater circuit by cutting a household extension cord (16 guage, rated for 15a). I thought about using a heavier cord or one made for appliances, since they might be more heat resistant, but the regular extension cord looked similar in size to what was on there originally. The cord insulation is "rubber like", but after a couple of roasts doesn't show any signs of melting or discoloration and the cords don't appear to be getting hot. Is it safe to use this type of cord (all connection are on the underside of the heater, which is presumably cooler)? I used a similar 2-prong cord for the fan circuit, since re-using the original cord would have been potentially dangerous, because of the lack of orienting "prong", so the two circuits could have potentially been "flipped" in polarity.

One final question: I have used the modified popper now (with router control in the heater circuit) a couple of times with no issues, other than a GFCI tripping (after the roast was complete - maybe when I turned off or unplugged machine?). I've read that some of these types of AC motors can trip GFCI outlets during normal operation, especially when starting out, etc. Is this normal, or should I be looking for some wiring issue? Everything looks fine in there...

Thanks in advance for your help!

-Michael
 
James211
Top  #57 Print Post
Posted on 01/31/2014 6:42 AM
With regards to controlling heat and fan speed, could you use a router speed controller to do that instead of a variac controller?

http://www.harbor...43060.html
Edited by JackH on 01/31/2014 10:48 AM
 
Airhan
Top  #58 Print Post
Posted on 01/31/2014 10:47 AM
Yes, a router speed controller would work just as well.
Aaron
"Grind it like it did you some great injustice!"D.L.Clark
 
Bob J
Top  #59 Print Post
Posted on 02/03/2014 7:03 AM

Quote

James211 wrote:

With regards to controlling heat and fan speed, could you use a router speed controller to do that instead of a variac controller?

http://www.harbor...43060.html


Agree with Airhan that you can use the router for each but it is really overkill for the fan circuit..... Not much current load there so a smaller rated potentiometer should work fine.... I am using a small triac I got off ebay for that.....

For the heat you really need something like the router speed control to be able to handle the load.... I tried using a 2kw controller off of ebay for that but it didn't survive the first roast so now am using the router controller and it has worked fine.....
 
brennn
Top  #60 Print Post
Posted on 02/03/2014 1:36 PM
Question: I've forgotten which wire to/from the switch connected to the line and to the neutral. Should the line wire connect to the OFF switch lead, or should the line wire connect to the ON switch lead?
 
Airhan
Top  #61 Print Post
Posted on 02/03/2014 2:26 PM
Brennn, it probably doesn't matter... but I'm also not sure which wires you're talking about. Are you talking about the two leads to the popperys power switch?
Aaron
"Grind it like it did you some great injustice!"D.L.Clark
 
brennn
Top  #62 Print Post
Posted on 02/03/2014 4:15 PM
Hey Airhan. Yes, I am referring to the two wires coming from the ON/OFF Switch on the Poppery I. Should Line be connected to the lead coming from the OFF side, or should the Line be connected to the lead coming from the ON side.

I'm asking because I just don't want everything to be turned on, when it's in the OFF position, and OFF when the switch is in the ON position.

ALSO - When I have everything hooked up, does anyone have any recommendations on a test plan for the first roast? I don't really want to just turn on the popper and hope for the best... Perhaps I can use a Variac in between the outlet and the popper to slowly control the voltage going into the popper?
 
Airhan
Top  #63 Print Post
Posted on 02/03/2014 5:01 PM
The switch is just a single pole, single throw so when it indicates "off" the contacts inside are disconnected and to current can pass though the circuit. When the switch is in the "on" position the contacts inside the switch touch and the circuit is complete, therefore with this switch it doesn't matter which side line goes in to, there are no diodes as far as I know. Just make sure the output from the switch goes where it needs to.

ALSO - I recommend you start a thread just about your poppery and the changes you've made to it (clearly you had it apart to do something, perhaps just separating the fan from the heater?). It would be nice to know more about your roaster before giving you advice on how to use it.

I hope you can be roasting soon greenman
Aaron
"Grind it like it did you some great injustice!"D.L.Clark
 
Bob J
Top  #64 Print Post
Posted on 02/04/2014 7:49 AM
Mine is set up with the switch still functioning as an off switch for the entire machine..... After the switch I have separate feeds (and controls) to the heat and fan so I can control each one separately....
 
brennn
Top  #65 Print Post
Posted on 02/04/2014 7:52 AM
Bob J, that is how I plan on using my switch. My switch is in line with the wall outlet, and the other side of the switch feeds my two SSRs and ZCD.
 
Bob J
Top  #66 Print Post
Posted on 02/04/2014 7:56 AM
Sounds good..... Do you have a thermocouple or other way to read your bean temp?
 
brennn
Top  #67 Print Post
Posted on 02/04/2014 2:37 PM
Hey Bob, I have two thermocouples. One is bare and one is more rigid (but flexible) which I have fitted into one of the holes from the heater/fan. I've attached a photo below.

i.imgur.com/DOS7R8b.jpg
 
Airhan
Top  #68 Print Post
Posted on 02/04/2014 6:18 PM
Brenn, if I'm seeing this correctly, you have two thermocouples entering one hole, one ends in the RC and the other goes into a vent to get the ET temp?

That's a nice work around to drill as few holes as possible, hopefully it doesn't interfere with bean movement though.
Aaron
"Grind it like it did you some great injustice!"D.L.Clark
 
brennn
Top  #69 Print Post
Posted on 02/04/2014 7:52 PM
Airhan, the bare thermocouple is used for BT while the black thermocouple is at the exit of the vent for ET. It was nice not having to open up the entire popper to stick a bare thermocouple right next to the fan/heater output.

We'll see if it does hinder the bean movement. I'm hoping that it acts in my favor as a "stationary mixer", per-say.
 
Bob J
Top  #70 Print Post
Posted on 02/05/2014 8:11 AM
Nice setup..... Re your roasting question I typically do the following (note, am roasting a Kenyan AA so your mileage may vary):

I turn the fan on full and set the variable on the router control to the middle of the red zone.

Incline the roaster roughly 15 degrees (I put the handle of a hammer under the edge of the base)

Fill the roaster with beans. Be sure to stop while there is still good visible circulation.

Set a countdown timer for 5 minutes.

Adjust the variable router control so you hit just over 300F bean temp around 3 minutes. Once you hit 300F remove the incline so the roaster sits flat. Let the beans dry for the remaining 2 minutes or so. You should see them turn light brown.

When the timer goes off I switch the router control to full power and reset the timer. You should see the temperature climb to reach a bit over 400F in the 5 minutes. Beans will darken and you should start to see/hear first crack. Bean volume will increase significantly and you should see a fair amount of chaff (depends on the bean you are roasting).

Reset the timer and slightly decrease your fan, leaving the heat settings on full. You should see the temperature start to climb. Your goal is 450F at roughly 5 minutes.

When you hit 450F you should start to hear second crack (you have to listen carefully over the fan motor). When you get to this point (irrespective of the timer), shut off the heat and turn the fan back to full..... Watch the temperature drop until it is below 250F and then pour the beans onto a baking tray to cool.

Couple of notes:
I have a "bake a round" chimney to extend my roasting chamber volume. You will need something similar....

I have incorporated a transformer into my fan circuit so you may have to play with the directions above to get the roast you want with your rig.

Work on your roasts using a single bean until you get the roast you like. Different beans roast differently but once you get the basic process down you should be able to adapt pretty quickly if you roast a different bean.

Keep notes detailing each step temp/time and how you like the resulting coffee. Initially seems like a lot of extra paperwork but really helps you dial in your roasts much quicker.

Good luck and let us know how your roasts go....;- )
 
WLemelin
Top  #71 Print Post
Posted on 12/02/2014 9:46 PM
I am very new to roasting. I have had some pretty good results with just stock poppers. Then I burned up the first one and was on the hunt for a new one. At my 4th thrift shop I found a Poppery 1 for $4.85. At the time I had no idea what I had stumbled across. After many hours reading this thread and several others, I have just finished my mod. I split the fan and heater and ran them to separate outlets. Those were ran through a fan motor and a 1500w dimmer for the heater. I also put in a fan from an old computer to blow up at the bottom of the popper. Then everything connects back up to an old computer power cord.

I know this thread is old, but I just had to share with others who care. Thanks for everyone's input...HUGE HELP!
 
dlviolin
Top  #72 Print Post
Posted on 11/20/2015 2:35 AM
Been roasting for a couple of years just using a Poppery II stock except for bypassing the thermostat. Got roasted beans but pretty hard to keep them from burning.
Over the past couple weeks I've separated the fan and heating element and used the router speed controller on the heat. This week swapped out the speed controller for a PID controller with SSR to toggle the heat. Also added an oil lamp chimney in place of the original plastic topper.
World of difference in the ability to control the roast. Still working to get the parameters right on the PID, but that's part of the fun it.
Regarding the earlier question of controlling fan speed, the router controller will work unless you need MORE fan speed rather than less. The better solution is an autotransformer (variously called Variac or Powerstat) which will actually give you up to 130 volts ac into the fan circuit.
First post here but have done a lot of browsing...sure appreciate the helpful friendly attitudes I see here. Thanks to all.
Dan in Kansas City
 
ChicagoJohn
Top  #73 Print Post
Posted on 11/23/2015 1:01 PM

Quote

The better solution is an autotransformer (variously called Variac or Powerstat) which will actually give you up to 130 volts ac into the fan circuit.
First post here but have done a lot of browsing...sure appreciate the helpful friendly attitudes I see here. Thanks to all.
Dan in Kansas City


I fully agree with your conclusion, Dan, regarding separate control of the fan and giving it as much power is possible. Thanks for posting a description of your experience an results !!
So many beans; so little time....
 
dlviolin
Top  #74 Print Post
Posted on 12/07/2015 10:33 PM
Thanks John. Tried another approach mounting the Poppery II in a cardboard box taped up and poked in the hose from the exhaust of a small shop vac, controlled by the SCR controller.
https://drive.goo...sp=sharing
Worked well but was overkill by a factor of about 10.
Traded a pound of home roasted coffee for a Variac and plugged the internal Poppery II into it. The additional boost in voltage was just enough to get the beans churning at room temp. Theory converted to proven methodGrin
 
scotthal
Top  #75 Print Post
Posted on 12/08/2015 12:44 AM
Oy. For the lucky sods w/Poppery I rigs... separate fan & heater, feed the fan thru a Powerstat (I use(d) a 10C), & park a full wave rectifier + a smoothing cap downstream. Boosts the available air flow significantly - figure half_a_pound w/o tilt. The blower is universal AC/DC.

Am retiring mine - got flaky (after nearly a decade of use) - the bakelite throat started to shed bits o' plastic. Non-toxic, but lacking in flavor... & the burr grinder really didn't like the schtuff.

My options: dig out & convert a backup (I've got a few spares); insert a bake-a-round duo (I've accumulated a stash); or build something interesting.

Q: Dreamt up a configuration towards the tail end of the of the '07 roaster build competition. Top load / bottom dump spouting bed; off_the_shelf hardware w/minimal mods (I'm a thumb-fingered klutz). Figure it's good for at least 2/3 lb, might handle a full pound - am a bit dubious (thermal requirements, & the plastic shop vac hoses would limit recirc). Any interest? The last time I started a thread (8 years back), comments were ambivalent - "I like the idea that you removed the heat gun heating element. Very smart. I hope others follow suit" - "What made you think of taking the heat gun apart and shoving it down the drain?".
Food for thought; coffee for concentration
 
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