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HT Roaster Interface devices
JimG
Well, it has finally happened. The interface boards a few of us have been working on and testing are ready to go.

RandyG is working on a user guide for the new interface boards. As soon as I get him the information he is patiently waiting on there will be an excellent guide available.

In the meantime, this dry and somewhat technical PDF will have to do:
http://www.mlgp-l...ce-001.pdf

A web page dedicated to the new boards can be found here:
http://www.mlgp-l...index.html

The executive summary describing the purpose and use of the new HT Roaster Interface devices is:

1. Start with a Hottop roaster (D, B, or P)
2. Add an Arduino/TC4 shield combo, or a TC4C standalone
3. Add RoastLogger software
4. Install the new interface device inside your roaster
5. Connect the new board to the Hottop control panel with an OEM Hottop cable.
6. Connect the new board to the Arduino/TC4 or TC4C (can be stacked or wired)
7. Enjoy having complete control of your heater and fan through RoastLogger (in addition to monitoring ET, BT, and RoR's).

Jim
 
bvwelch
Very very cool! Now to start saving my mad money for a HT.
 
JimG

Quote

bvwelch wrote:

Very very cool! Now to start saving my mad money for a HT.


See what you started?

Jim
 
snwcmpr
Ok, I have a HT B-2.
Any ballpark figure for the cost to do this?
I say that so I don't get into the research and find it is out of my budget.

Thanks for your patience with me,
Ken in NC
--------------
Backwoods Roaster
"I wish I could taste as well as I wish I could roast."

As Abraham Lincoln said "Do not trust everything you read on the internet".
 
JimG

Quote

snwcmpr wrote:

Ok, I have a HT B-2.
Any ballpark figure for the cost to do this?

Depends on whether you charge yourself for your own time Grin

Here's what you'll need:

1. A couple of new thermocouple probes, type K, 1/8" diameter stainless sleeves. Budget $25 each, but can probably get them cheaper.

2. HTC+TC4C combo package = $159 plus $6 shipping to NC

3. 8-wire internal cable from HottopUSA = $10 + shipping

4. USB cable (probably you have one somewhere??). If not budget $5.

5. Some screws, etc. to fasten the new electronics inside the Hottop, near the existing power board.

All told, probably around $235.

An option is to install the thermocouples and a TC4C, then use RoastLogger or Artisan for monitoring only. Then you can add the HTC roaster interface later if you want. That would get you started for under $150.

Jim
 
Randy G
I don't want to cross-post, so there is a thread I started on HB. It has a few photos of my installation along with an explanation which may help those not sure about what is involved..

Life's too short to drink bad coffee.
 
snwcmpr
Thank you.
That budget answer tells me this is do-able.
I will follow up with more research.

Ken
--------------
Backwoods Roaster
"I wish I could taste as well as I wish I could roast."

As Abraham Lincoln said "Do not trust everything you read on the internet".
 
teemark
Wow, this is exactly what I've been wanting to do with my Hottop-D!
 
JimG
That is precisely the roaster I have, so I had some motivation Grin

Oddly, the implementation on the D was the simplest to accomplish. The B and P models use inverted logic, plus have some other oddities that had us scratching our heads for a while.

I ended up deciding that supporting all 3 variations of Hottop was going to require a microcontroller on the interface board to sort out.

But the D implementation worked from day one!

Jim
 
JimG
The HT Roaster Interface Users Guide version 1.00 is now available for download.

Randy has done another excellent piece of work here -- thank you. Tom's reviews and comments are also gratefully acknowledged.

Jim
 
teemark
Thanks, Jim. Reading that right now. Hope to get started on this project in the next couple weeks.
 
snwcmpr
Ok, one question.
The area between the roast chamber and the filter (where the motor is) seems to collect chaff and residue from the smoke.
Is this addition going to be prone to problems from residue collecting on it?

I see this as the only design flaw with the HT.

Thanks,
Ken
--------------
Backwoods Roaster
"I wish I could taste as well as I wish I could roast."

As Abraham Lincoln said "Do not trust everything you read on the internet".
 
snwcmpr
Is my question ridiculous?
I don't imagine it to be.
I see the coating whenever I take the back off to remove chaff.

Ken
--------------
Backwoods Roaster
"I wish I could taste as well as I wish I could roast."

As Abraham Lincoln said "Do not trust everything you read on the internet".
 
Randy G
I don't see it as the only flaw, but it has not shown to be a problem. It is important to clean it out occasionally. Compressed air work quite well for that. The Hottop USA website has disassembly instructions to make it easy to open it up for cleaning. The one I regularly use I take apart about once a year for complete cleaning. I have even washed the fan using a brush and TSP, then carefully rinsed them under the faucet and, once again, use compressed air to get the residual moisture out. I have done the same with the drum motor (although I do not recommend it).

Life's too short to drink bad coffee.
 
snwcmpr
Thanks Randy, I do that.
But I am asking about the electronic boards added in this mod.
I wouldn't clean them with water.

Ken
--------------
Backwoods Roaster
"I wish I could taste as well as I wish I could roast."

As Abraham Lincoln said "Do not trust everything you read on the internet".
 
Randy G
The temperatures around the area of the boards is not a concern, and similar systems (Arduino-based) have been in use for some time without difficulty. I think that compressed air, just as with the other electronics in there would take care of any problem. I wouldn't worry about it.

Life's too short to drink bad coffee.
 
JimG
I don't have any hard data, but I do not believe the temperatures below the drum motor shelf are high enough to cause any problems for the HT Roaster Interfaces.

Next time I need to open up my roaster for something, I will stick a thermocouple in there and get some data during a few live roasts.

Jim
 
snwcmpr
FYI ... Just to be more clear, but not meaning to be be blunt, just brief.
My question was about the smoke leaving residue on the board.
Ken
--------------
Backwoods Roaster
"I wish I could taste as well as I wish I could roast."

As Abraham Lincoln said "Do not trust everything you read on the internet".
 
JimG
Sorry, Ken, I misunderstood.

I don't anticipate problems associated with smoke, etc., condensing on the board. It is effectively in the same space as the main Hottop power board, and I have not seen any coating develop there in my roaster.

IF it became a problem, and I don't think it would, then once removed from the roaster the HTRI and TC4 boards can safely be cleaned using isopropyl alcohol. I regularly use 90% (or higher) iso here to clean boards after soldering. Haven't seen any detrimental effects, even with switches and potentiometers.

I'm assuming that the iso would dissolve any film/coating that might develop over the years, but I have to say up front that I have no data to support.

Jim
 
snwcmpr
Ok, thank you.
Ken
--------------
Backwoods Roaster
"I wish I could taste as well as I wish I could roast."

As Abraham Lincoln said "Do not trust everything you read on the internet".
 
smico

Quote

JimG wrote:
Next time I need to open up my roaster for something, I will stick a thermocouple in there and get some data during a few live roasts.
Jim,
Isn't there a thermocouple onboard of TC4?
Hottop B2 + HTC, Cremina 83, OE Pharos, Brewtus IIIR, Baratza Vario
 
JimG
Yes, there is a temperature sensor on the board. I need to check and see if those readings are recorded in the log from RoastLogger. Good idea!

Jim
 
JackH
If the original Hottop board had microprocessor control, it should be no problem for the Arduino to live there too. As long as you don't approach the 85C/185F temperature max of the Arduino.

Cleaning the board off can be done when you do the other maintenance cleaning of the machine.
---Jack

KKTO Roaster.
 
smico

Quote

JimG wrote:

I don't have any hard data, but I do not believe the temperatures below the drum motor shelf are high enough to cause any problems for the HT Roaster Interfaces.

Next time I need to open up my roaster for something, I will stick a thermocouple in there and get some data during a few live roasts.

Jim
I started running back to back roasts, so I was curious about temperatures inside the roaster during continuous runs. I installed two thermocouples, one attached to the back of the drum motor, and second in electronics area, close to where TC4 is installed.

I just just did 4 113g back to back roasts, with external cooling of beans.
Max tempearture of the drum motor was 79C (175F).
Maximum temperature in the electronics area was 69C (157F).
Max temperatures were reached at the end of the second roast, and they would reach that maximum at the end of every subsequent roast.

Cheers,

Miroslav
Hottop B2 + HTC, Cremina 83, OE Pharos, Brewtus IIIR, Baratza Vario
 
smico
Jim,

Maximum temperature in the electronics area was 69C (157F).

How much higher would be safe to go? I am going to do few 250g back to back today.

Thanks,

Mirosalv
Hottop B2 + HTC, Cremina 83, OE Pharos, Brewtus IIIR, Baratza Vario
 
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